Wine, the endless topic.

things that sparkle

Cava, Conde de Subirats, Spain, Brut NV (crisp, lean, clean and frothy) 32.

HALF BOTTLE Champagne, Duval Leroy, brut, NV (just the right amount) 27.

Blanc de Blancs, Wolf Mountain, brut, Dahlonega, GA, 2008 (easily our favorite GA wine) 44.3

Champagne, Aubry, brut, Jouy-les-Reims 1er Cru, NV (we must support the growers!) 52.

Champagne, Claude Genet, Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru, NV (same grapes as all the greats) 69.

Champagne, Pierre Gimonnet, Cuvee Gastronome, brut, 2005 (great food matcher) 95.

Champagne, Pierre Peters, Cuvee Speciale, 'Chetillons' 2000 (rich, refined & zippy at the end) 150.

Champagne, Louis Roederer, 'Cristal', France, 2000, (yes…that Cristal) 250.

rosés

rosé, Brumont, Cotes de Gascogne, France, 2010 (To be, or Tannat be? Sorry that joke's awful) 32.

vin gris of pinot noir, Robert Sinskey, Carneros, CA, 2010 (Rob's vin gris is unmatched and ultra-limited) 48.

chardonnays USA

Windsor-Sonoma, RRV, CA, 2009 (just right juice from our friends at Girard) 40.

Stuhlmuller, Estate Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, CA, 2009 (so good…full and layered.) 48.

Ramey, Russian River Valley, CA, 2009 (majestic and a great deal; less buttery/ oaky than you think) 62.

Brewer-Clifton, Mount Carmel Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, 2007 (Greg & Steve’s Asian pear explosion) 85

chardonnay of france

Bourgogne, Jean-Marc Brocard 'Kimmeridgian' 2008 (clean complexity) 36.

Bourgogne, Verget, 'Terroirs de Cote d'Or', Burgundy, 2008 (oh yes--whiffs of Puligny) 40.

Chablis 1er Cru, J.P. & B. Droin, 'Les Vaillons', Burgundy, 2009 (intensely juicy rocks) 48.

Rully, Domaine de la Folie, 'Clos la Folie', Burgundy, 2008 (springy Chalonnaise) 52.

Pouilly-Fuissé, Elizabeth Hugary, 'Les Chailloux', 2009 (the Auvigues bringing their best) 58.

St. Aubin 1er Cru, Marc Colin, 'La Chateniere', 2007 (beautiful wine; we love Aubin) 72.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, Marc Colin, 'Les Champs Gains', 2006 (gain some ground) 82.

Meursault, Vincent Girardin, 'Les Narvaux', 2006 (like big fat angels singing) 95.

Puligny-Montrachet, Bachelet-Monnot, 2009 (young dudes making grownup Puligny) 105.

Beaune 1er Cru blanc, Domaine de Montille, 'Les Aigrot', 2007 (this is epic) 110.

sauvignon blanc and a chenin blanc

Les Hexagonales, Loire, France 2009 (chalky, lemony, all you want from the Loire) 24.

Mount Nelson, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2010 (Ludovico Antinori's NZ tribute to the Loire) 36.

Domaine du Salvard, Cheverny, France, 2010 (Loire delight; like Sancerre+Chablis) 36.

Sancerre, Roger Neveu, 'Clos des Bouffants', Loire, France, 2009 (lovely/long) 44.

Montlouis, Le Rocher des Violettes, 'Touche Mitaine', Loire, France, 2008 (bone-rattling Chenin) 44.

Sancerre, Domaine Vacheron, 'Les Romains', Loire, 2008 (those Vacheron boys are crushing it) 86.

Sancerre, Edmond Vatan, 'Clos la Neore', Loire, 2009 (pretty much the finest Sancerre around) 90.

the whites of Italy

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marchetti, Marche, Italy, 2010 (awesome small-production; old skool) 32.

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Valle Reale, 'Vigne Nuove', Italy, 2010 (squeaky clean and ready for the dinner table) 32.

Roero Arneis, Vietti, Piedmont, Italy, 2009 (this wine brought Arneis back from the brink!) 36.

Pinot Grigio, Borgo M, Veneto, Italy, 2010 (good acidity and tasty minerals; stylin') 32.

Pinot Grigio, Livio Felluga, Collio, Friuli, Italy, 2008 (Livio's a hero. Taste a grown-up PG) 46.

Bianco, Radikon, 'Oslavje', Venezia Giulia, Italy, 2005 500 ML BTL (orange wine! yes!) 52.

Austria and Germany

Riesling, Leitz, 'Einz Zwei Dry', Rheingau, Germany, 2007 (a dry and happy QbA) 28.

Riesling, Karthäuserhof, Feinherb, Mosel, Germany, 2009 (achtung! this almost-dry wine rules) 36.

Riesling, Dr. F. Weins-Prüm, Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett, Mosel, Germany, 2008 (the classic vintage) 40.

Riesling, Dr. F. Weins-Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Trocken, Mosel, Germany 2009 (bone dry and thrilling) 40.

Riesling, J.J. Christoffel Erben, Ürziger Würzgarten Kabinett, Mosel, Germany, 2007 (the spice garden) 44.

Riesling, Leitz, Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Spätlese, Mosel, Germany, 2004 (Oh honey.) 52.

Riesling, Schlossgut Diel, Dorsheim Burgberg Kabinett, Nahe, Germany, 2007 (deal me in) 58.

Riesling, Hiedler, 'Maximum', Kamptal, Austria, 2007 (OH GOODNESS. Big and DRY and layered+++) 64.

Riesling, Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese, Mosel, Germany, 2009 (few can compete with Prüm) 65.

Riesling, Dönnhoff, Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl Spätlese, Nahe, Germany, 2007 (among the world's best) 70.

Gruner Veltliner, Ecker, Austria, 2009 (spicy zesty Gruner in a fat liter bottle) 28.

Gruner Veltliner, Nigl, 'Freheit', Kamptal, Austria, 2009 (zowie that's good) 44.

many other whites

viognier, Le Paradou, Rhone Valley, France, 2010 (fresh juicy style--fantastic value) 28.

Vermentino, Clos Teddi, Patrimonio, Corsica, France 2009 (slippery dancing island mangoes) 48.

Heida Paien, Cave Caloz, 'Les Bernunes', Switzerland, 2008 (Yes, the Swiss make wine & it's good) 68.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape blanc, Cuvee du Vatican, Rhone, 2007 (fat and round and wondrous) 90.

Condrieu, Andre Perret, 'Chery', France, 2005 (this wine has wings) 120.

Pinot Gris, Maysara, 'Arsheen', McMinnville, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2010 (crispy) 28.

Gewurztraminer, Foris, Rogue Valley, Oregon, 2007 (keep your peepers peeled for dry Oregon whites) 32.

Gewurztraminer, the Scholium Project, 'Riquewihr', CA, 2008 500 ML BTL (madman of wine) 70.

HALF BOTTLE Pinot Blanc, Robert Sinskey, California, 2009 (pretty wine from our friend Bob) 32.

Bethel Heights, Willamette Valley, OR 2008 (Awesome year for Willamette fruit) 40.

Montinore Estate, Willamette Valley, OR, 2010 (spicy-floral with some very elegant dirt) 44.

Au Bon Climat, Santa Barbera, CA, 2009 (Jim Clendenen the gray-maned master) 50.

Eyrie, Dundee Hills, Oregon, 2009 (RIP David Lett, the Oregon pioneer--ethereal/gorgeous) 56.

Fiddlehead Cellars, 'Fiddlestix 728', Santa Rita Hills, CA 2007 (Kathy Joseph's got your #) 58.

Lioco, Sonoma Coast, CA, 2008 (this wine represents the future of California; the revolution is now) 64.

Robert Sinskey, Carneros, CA, 2008 (we miss his defunct Merlot but we'll always have the Pinot) 65.

Big Table Farm, 'Cattrall Brothers Vineyard', Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, OR 2009 (lean/spicy/boutique) 68.

Alexana, 'Revana Vineyard', Willamette Valley, OR 2009 (Dr. Revana's lush & long Pinot) 74.

Arcadian, Dierberg Vineyard, SLH, CA, 2006 (Joe Davis is cool. He likes Burgundy) 85.

Merry Edwards, Sonoma Coast, CA, 2008 (the cult of Merry; big but balanced) 88.

Radio-Coteau, 'la Neblina', Sonoma Coast, CA, 2009 (by Eric Sussman; long and good) 105.

Brewer-Clifton, Clos Pepe Vineyard, Santa Rita Hills, CA, 2007 (Pommard clone beauty) 115.

Pinot Noir, Roncier, Burgundy, NV (unheard of price point for pinot from Burgundy.) 24.

Pinot Nero, J. Hofstätter, Alto-Adige, Italy, 2009 (well-made and very, very pretty) 36.

Bourgogne, Joseph Voillot, France, 2009 (old-vine Pommard & Volnay fruit from my favorite big guy) 44.

Bourgogne, Meo-Camuzet, France, 2008 (drinks like everybody else's Premier Cru) 56.

Pinot Noir, Rebholz, Spätlese Dry, 'Tradition', Pfalz, Germany, 2007 (Hangin' with Hansjorg) 62. *1

Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, Paul Jouard, Vielles Vignes, Burgundy, 2007 (relaxed muscle) 67.

Santenay 1er Cru, Lucien Muzard & Fils, 'Maladiere', Burgundy, 2007 (lean minerals and healthy cherries) 68.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Sylvie Esmonin, Vielles Vignes, 2007 (lush and commanding) 85.

Volnay 1er Cru, Jean-Michel Gaunoux, 'Clos des Chenes', Burgundy, 2004 (Cote de Beaune gots soul) 99.

Beaune 1er Cru, Chateau de Chorey, 'Les Cras', Vielles Vignes, Burgundy, 2006 (in the sweet spot) 110.

Nuits-St-George 1er Cru, J.F. Mugnier, 'Clos de Marechal', Burgundy, 2005 (JF rocks) 150.

Echezeaux Grand Cru, Mongeard-Mugneret, Vielles Vignes, Burgundy, 2007 (great growth, great vines) 185.2

barbera d'Asti, Damilano, 2009 (great winery that keeps getting better and better) 32.

barbera d'Alba, Vietti, Tre Vigne, 2008 (we love this winery and this wine--elegant & awesome) 48.

nebbiolo/barbera, Brandini, Langhe Rosso, 2007 (ah the awesome oh-sevens) 48.

Barolo, Vietti, Castiglione, 2006 (Classy Nebbiolo from an artful producer) 82.

Barolo, Bongiovanni, Piedmont, 2003 (modern, but not too racy; nicely done) 89.

Barolo, Massolino, Piedmont, 2004 (truffles and delicate earth; wonderfully fine) 105.

Barolo, Massolino , Vigna Rionda, Piedmont, 2001 (The way Barolo should be, big time. 3 B ) 159.

Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello, Piedmont, 1999 (Bartolo did things the old way; power and class) 165.

Barolo, Giuseppe Mascarello, 'Monprivato', Piedmont, 2003 (400 yr old vineyard; otherworldly) 165.

Barolo, Pianpolvere Soprano, 'Bussia Riserva', Piedmont, 1999 (Insane goodness from Valentino of Manzoni) 225.

Carema, Ferrando, Black Label, Piedmont, 2004 (delicate, ethereal and deep nebbiolo; special stuff) 120.

Barbaresco, Poderi Elia, 'Serracapelli', Piedmont, 2005 (straight up delicious Barbaresco; jump on it) 82.

Barbaresco, Marchesi di Gresy, 'Camp Gros', Piedmont, 2000 (Awesome deep cherry and roses) 120.

Chianti, Poggio Vignoso, Tuscany, 2009 (The original blend of Sang/Canaiolo/Malvasia) 24.

Rosso di Montepulciano, Corte alla Flora, Tuscany, 2007 (Prugnolo performs) 28.

HALF BOTTLE, Chianti Classico, Fontodi, Tuscany, 2007 (half bottles are so darn useful) 36.

Chianti Classico, Felsina, Tuscany, 2008 (old-schoolers playing the Sangiovese hits) 36.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Duca di Saragnano, Tuscany, 2007 (small-production/old-style) 40.

Rosso di Montalcino, Talenti, Tuscany, 2008 (drinking great; Brunello Jr.) 48.

Chianti Classico, Castello dei Rampolla, Tuscany, 2005 (dried cherry and mean minerals) 56.

sangiovese, etc., La Mozza, 'Aragone', Tuscany, 2007 (Joe B's beast bound w/ syrah) 74.

Brunello di Montalcino, San Felice, 'Campogiovanni', Tuscany, 2006 (three snaps up in a z formation) 84.

Brunello di Montalcino, Vitanza, Tuscany, 2004 (Vitanza's stuff is dependably delicious) 90.

Brunello di Montalcino, Poggio di Sotto, Tuscany, 1999 (this is unbelievable) 175.

Brunello di Montalcino, Poggio di Sotto, Tuscany, 2001 (redonk) 175.

sangiovese, Montevertine, 'Le Pergole Torte', Tuscany, 2004 (tour de force! in Italian) 160.

Montepulciano D'Abruzzo, Villa Medoro, Italy, 2007 (least expensive 3B wine ever! brooding/delish) 36.

refosco, Scarbolo, Friuli, Italy, 2006 (big, rustic, and delicious--good wine by a good man) 56.

merlot, Scarbolo, 'Campo Del Viotto', 2007 (the best wine by Valter, one of our favorite people) 56.

nero d'avola, COS, 'Nero di Lupo', Sicily, 2008 (the most elegant nero d'avola you'll ever have) 40.

nero d’avola- frappato, COS, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily, 2008 (resurrecting the ancients) 48.

nero d’avola- frappato, COS, PITHOS, Sicily, 2006 (river of flavor; made in Amphora!) 72.

Etna Rosso, Terre Nere, 'Calderara Sottana', Sicily, 2006 (such cool stuff--voluptuous wildberry/minerals) 72.

bovale sardo, Argiolas, 'Korem', Sardinia, Italy, 2006 (like grilling beef on the beach) 80.

valpolicella, Quintarelli, Veneto, 2000 (godfather of Amarone; iconic length and complexity) 120.

garnacha, Evodia, Spain, 2009 (one the great buys of the wine world) 22.

Navarra, Baron de Magaña, Spain, 2005 (Merlot/Cabernet/Tempranillo by the guy who did it first) 36.

Mencia, Vico, Bierzo, Spain, 2008 (Raul Perez is a Mencia monster and this is his new pet) 48.

Ribera del Duero, Frontaura, 'Nexus' Crianza, 2005 (purple stuff) 58.

Priorato, Coster del Siurana, 'Miserere', 2004 (beastly carignan) 110.

Priorato, Partida Bellvisos, Gratallops, 2003 (Clos Martinet & Mogador in one; only 1000 bottles!) 125.

Priorato, Partida Bellvisos, Gratallops, 2004 (When you pair Rene Barbier and Sara Perez it gets good) 125.

Rioja, Muga, 'Torre Muga', 2004 (layers of mammoth tempranillo, graciano and mazuela) 130.

Cotes du Rhone, Galevan, 'Paroles de Femme', 2009 (Grenache guzzler) 32.

Coteaux du Languedoc, St. Martin de la Garrigue, 'Bronzinelle', 2007 (delicious southern Syrah n stuff) 36.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Mas de Boislauzon, 2007 (Brooding and beastly) 72.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine Monpertuis, 2007 (we love this producer; all class all the time) 78.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Le Vieux Donjon, 2008 (charged with old-style vitality) 90.

Crozes-Hermitage, Ferraton, 'La Matiniere' N. Rhone, 2009 (Chapoutier's new biodynamic playground) 40.

St. Joseph, Alain Graillot, Northern Rhone 2007 (black pepper & medium-rare meat) 59.

Hermitage, Marc Sorrel, 'Le Greal', N. Rhone 2000 (Aimez Hermitage! Aimez M. Sorrel!) 120.

mour-syrah-cab, Domaine de la Grange des Pères, VdP de l’Hérault, 2004 (the best wine of Languedoc) 125.

syrah-Mour.-Gren., Terre Rouge, 'Tete-a-Tete', Sierra Foothills, CA, 2007 (Terre Rouge gets it) 32.

syrah, Qupé, Bien Nacido Vineyard, CA 2008 (Bob Lundquist's awesome homage to St. Joseph) 48.

syrah, Red Car, 'the Fight', Round 3, Santa Maria, CA, 2004 (R.I.P. Mark Estrin) 100.

shiraz, Elderton, 'Command', Barossa Valley, 2004 (command and conquer; 98 RP) 125.

Zinfandel blend, Owen Roe, 'Abbots Table', Yakima Valley, WA, 2009 (zin/cab/sangio/syrah/kitchen sink) 44.

Zinfandel blend, Ridge, 'Geyserville’, CA 2009 (Paul Draper is one of Cali's best) 56.

Merlot, Truchard, Carneros, CA, 2008 (the dash of Cabernet Franc in it really sets it off) 44.

Merlot, Scarbolo, 'Campo Del Viotto', Friuli, Italy, 2007 (the best wine by Valter, one of our favorite people) 56.

Merlot, Pride Mountain, Spring Mountain District, Napa, CA 2008 (year in year out Pride rules) 95.

American cabernets

Cain Vineyards, 'Cain Concept', Napa Valley, 2007 (Believe it.) 52.

Elodian, Napa Valley, 2006 (Tom Eddy makes pitch-perfect cabernets) 54.

Hawkes, Alexander Valley, 2004 (Young Jake is doing his family proud; great food cab) 64.

Branham, Napa, 2007 (shhh… this wine drinks like it costs way more) 65.

Sineann, Baby Poux Vineyard, Washington, 2007 (Peter Rosback’s gift to the glass) 72.

Paul Hobbs, 'Crossbarn', Napa Valley, CA, 2008 (big Paul makes it all) 75.

Georg Rafael, Napa Valley, 1999 (Classic-styled boutique Cab with some age) 90.

Georg Rafael, Napa Valley, 2005 (OR you could try the latest release) 90.

Tom Eddy, Napa Valley, 2003 (this one is just now hitting its stride) 110.

Cain Vineyards, 'Cain Five', Spring Mountain, Napa, 2006 (a true Cali classic) 150.

Robert Foley, Claret, Napa, 2005 (graceful giant) 175.

Peter Michael, 'les Pavots', Calistoga, 2006 (amazing wine from a Knight) 275.

big french reds: loire and bordeaux

Saumur-Champigny, Domaine de Nerleux, 'Clos des Chetains', Loire, France, 2006 (ultra-aromatic & husky) 40.

Chinon, Charles Joguet, 'Clos de la Dioterie', Loire, France, 2006 (Cab Franc at its best; Joguet simply rules) 56.

St. Emilion, Chateau Puy-Blanquet, Bordeaux, 2008 (vivacious Emilion) 48.

Graves, Chateau du Seuil, Bordeaux, 2005 (herbaceous Cabernet character) 52.

St. Estephe, Chateau Phelan-Segur, Bordeaux, 2005 (ooh yeah it's got that silky top on it) 99.

St. Emilion, Pavie-Macquin, Bordeaux, 2004 (one of the right-bank's emerging superstars) 115.

Pessac-Leognan, Chateau Pape-Clement, Bordeaux, 2004 (fleshy and lush but classy too) 165

footnotes

1. Yes, they make great reds in Germany, too. No, they haven't always. But they are succeeding more and more. Hansjorg Rebholz ($68) is one of Germany's young badasses, and he only makes the dry stuff. His Pinot Noir (a.k.a. Spätburgunder) has remarkably pure and elegant fruit for sure, but in the end it is all about texture. The vineyard site here is a mix of limestone-clay (yes, like what they grow Pinot on in Burgundy) and a type of red sandstone. The sandstone is sort of a wildcard element, and with some decanting (you'll definitely want to decant this one) you sense what the sandstone gives it, an unbelievable velvety-viscous salinity, a totally impressive but wholly unusual Pinot experience.

2. Oh and speaking of Burgundy, it's nice to have around an example of what the place does best. One of the great Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy is Echezeaux. Echezeaux is within sight of some of the worlds most hallowed ground, the thunderous Grand Crus of Richebourg, La Tache, and La Romanee, the hallmark holdings of Romanee-Conti. And maybe the best vines in Echezeaux itself belong to Vincent Mongeard of Mongeard-Mugneret ($185). Vincent is very proud of his vines and of himself (check out the logo--his hand bestowing fruit upon us all), and after one sniff of this quickly developing 2007 you'll be fast proud of him, too.

3. I love my home state. I can't see any reason to move away. Unfortunately, I usually can't see any reason to drink the wines it produces, either. They are often overpriced and underwhelming, like you have to both pay more and get less, making excuses to get you through the bottle (It's local, or Well they just don't have the right climate up there but they're trying--that sort of thing). This is not the case with Wolf Mountain's Blanc de Blancs Brut sparkler ($44). Somehow GA's own Karl Boegner worked out some kinks and has made something that actually tastes like good wine. Karl makes it with the Champagne method and from 100% Chardonnay. To me it drinks like a fine, lilting French Cremant, but with a coolness that I can only describe as 'whiffs of Dahlonega pine'.
--SG